Monthly sewing tutorial ~ The (EPIC) scallop

This is the first installment of the Hetterson monthly sewing series, woohoo for new stuff!

Here is my own personal method for scalloping a hem. I came up with this after alot of trial and error. It is a no pin method(I hate pinning). This is pretty much a step-by-step photo tutorial. Frankly I've never been able to learn how to do something from just text. I either need to see step-by-step photos or have someone show me how, if I don't, I end up getting really frustrated and come up with my own method you see here.


Freezer paper (equal to the length of the edge to be scalloped)

un-hemmed garment or piece of scrap fabric for practice.

Clear presser foot(optional)

Iron (hot and steamy)

TO START! measure piece of fabric(or hem edge) to be scalloped. In this case 17.5in.

Divide the measurement by the number of scallops you want..(ex. 17.5 in = 5 scallops that are 3.5in long). I suck at math so if I can do can too!

Right side of fabric(or hem) facing up! Fold the edge up the desired hem width(2.5) + 1/2in = (3in. total)

then fold over 1/2in

grab yourself the piece of freezer paper...

and measure and mark the width of your scallops(3.5) and the number(5) on the edge of the freezer paper...

square up with a ruler from each mark to make little half squares

Run a line across the top of the half boxes equal to your HEM WIDTH + 1/2in. - 3/4in extra!

Cut out your boxes

and fold up...


so...each folded piece should be equal to your scallops width(3.5in)

get some kind of circular container(see above milk bottle), and trace around it.

OR fold the wad in half and cut out half of your desired scallop careful not to cut to to the edge or cut too deep! You want a good 1-1.5in of straight NOT SCALLOPED edge.

like so.

when you open you scallops up they should look like a paper chain.

Spread the scallops out on the hem edge.

make sure the top of the scallop edge OVERLAPS the folded top of the hem onto the main piece. This will keep the hem in place while you sew.

Iron, iron and iron. Make sure to really press into the overlapped area. So the freezer paper has a secure join to the main piece. You don't want this popping loose while you're sewing.

set your machine stitch length to really small. I usually set mine to a little under 1.

stitch along the scalloped edge making sure not to stitch on the paper(but it's okay if you do), go slow the first few scallops.

when you get to the place in between each scallop, turn and do 1 st. before turning into the next scallop.

when you're done sewing, peel off the freezer paper...slowly

notch each scallop, being careful not to cut the stitching.

trim each scallop seam allowance down to about 3/16in.

iron, iron, iron

then press the iron into each individual scallop, pressing the seam on the inside. This ensures the scallops will turn out perfect every time. Flip the scallops right side out, finger press them so the scallops are even and smooth, then press/steam with the real iron.

When you are all done the scallops should look something like this! YAY! GOOD JOB! You deserve to eat an entire tub of ice cream, go at it!